Monday, 26 August 2013

Spurn

Spurn is unique in the British Isles.  It is, basically, a long boulder clay and sand spit extending out into the North Sea from East Yorkshire.


It forms the northern lip of the mouth of the Humber and is roughly five kilometres long in a southward curve and narrows to around 50 metres in places.  It has always been a dynamic feature and over the centuries it has moved considerably.  At the moment it is being eroded and it looks like Spurn Point might become an island.  This happens every two hundred and fifty years, roughly, and then Spurn rebuilds itself from silt in the sea.

For me, Spurn starts at Kilnsea and my visits always start with a cup of tea in the Blue Bell cafe.  The Blue Bell also has a small exhibition about the geology, ecology and history of Spurn. Next to the Blue Bell is a smallish car park and on a sunny day this rapidly fills up. There is also a public toilet in the car park.

The road in Kilnsea goes just past the car park and then stops.  The road used to go a deal further but erosion of the boulder clay cliff has destroyed it.  You can clearly see remains of the road down on the beach. If you walk right to the end of the road and look left, there are the concrete remains of World War II defences - a pill box and gun emplacement are still identifiable.  These are also down on the beach and are lying at a variety of angles.  At low tide, they are stranded on the sand and at high tide they are mainly submerged.  The state of the tide is very important at Spurn and it is worth extending your visit over five or six hours to get both low and high tides.

WWII defences







My normal walk here is to start at kilnsea and then walk along the beach (which means low tide) on the northern side of of Spurn to the point.  When walking any distance on any beach, it is rather important to keep an eye on the incoming tide and to abandon the walk in good time if the water gets too close.

Anti-tank defences
The water along here is the North Sea and is fairly clean and green although clay is also clearly visible in the water.  Photographic opportunities along here include seals in the sea having a good look at the humans on the beach.  They don't stay on the surface for long but will repeatedly reappear.  A longish lens (200 mm or longer) is best for the seals as is a tripod.  Also along the beach you will find a series of lone anglers staring patiently out to sea.

As you reach the curve of Spurn you will come across the remains of wooden jetties or landing stages.  All that is left of these is a number of lines of large timber baulks sticking out of the sand.  These are well weathered and make good subjects, either alone where you can make the most of the textures or in groups where the lines become more important.

Timber baulks
At low tide, these are entirely in the dry sand and it is possible to get down amongst them.  At high tide their bases are submerged and the sea comes up to the cliff.  At this point they are still quite interesting but the photographer needs to be on the cliff.  For me, the ideal time to reach this part is as the incoming tide reaches the bases of the baulks.

Along this Spurn beach you will see the occasional cargo ship approaching the humber. Apart  from this there is usually little of note along here unless you are a keen birder. this is a prime place to see the various species of tern, skua and other migratory sea birds.  Not far past the relics of the jetties I head inland and join the road. This road is composed of rather small concrete slabs lain on sand - it is not particularly flat or level.  This part of Spurn is a nature reserve run by YWT. Dogs are absolutely forbidden - even if shut up in your car! It is also partially covered in san.  Following this to the point will reveal other photographic opportunities.  At the Point is a coastguard station and associated buildings.

More baulks
 Spurn has two lighthouses.  One is on the highest part of the the Point and looks like a standard Trinity House lighthouse - round, curved profile, painted black and white. The second lighthouse is hexagonal and sits on the beach. the front door of this beach lighthouse  is quite a way up and I would think is only accessible at high tide.

Around the general area of the coastguard station there is a certain amount of old, weathered marine equipment . If you like rust, this is worth looking at, particularly the tractor.

All the shipping visiting the Humber posts - Grimsby, Immingham, Keadby, Gunness, Goole - pass by here and there are usually several cargo ships in the offing.

Walking back to kilnsea along the road, you are now on the southern edge of Spurn. The water here is the Humber rather than the North Sea and is brown in colour and muddy. There are no beaches on this side but at low tide there are extensive mud flats that are home to a huge variety of wading birds.  That long lens and tripod will be handy here as well.

Lighthouse
As I said above, even this road is rugged and needs a fair amount of fitness. You also need to keep aware of cars driving stealthily along on the sand covered road - they make almost no sound!

As you go back to Kilnsea, you will leave the YWT reserve. Just before the gate, there is a warden's office with a small display about Spurn wildlife, and during the day a warden who ill help with understanding the wildlife you have seen. 

Once you leave the reserve, the road is tarmaced and stable. Walking is now easier and the cars faster!  About half way between the reserve and Kilnsea is another small car park. This is not visible from the road but the two small access roads are - on the left as you walk to kilnsea. From this car park there is a short wooden walkway to a hide by a 'scrape' where you can watch and photograph water birds.

Kilnsea (and the Blue Bell) are now in sight and I find a last pot of tea in the Blue Bell to be appropriate.  If you finish your visit to Spurn too late for a last cup, of tea in the Blue bell, all is not lost. Just up the road towards Easington is a pub called the Crown and Anchor who do a decent pale ale and pub food (I suspect they do other drinks, but I have never asked).
young deer seen near the canal Scrape

1 comment:

  1. Very interesting. Great photo work & descriptive write-ups. Makes me want to cross the pond and visit. Thanks. / ~Connecticut, USA

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